Ireland, through my eyes.

November 2026

View from my room, 708, at Wren Urban Nest

Outside the former St. Andrew's Church, Dublin 2

First glimpse of traditional Irish music at The Cobblestone Pub, Dublin. This is where I lost my Guinness virginity!

The musician's circle, Cobblestone Pub, Dublin

Jean, from Ireland but now a New York native, one of the 3 of us on the guided music tour

This was on the way back to Wren Urban Nest after the music tour. I walked more than 20,000 steps that day!

A Dublin street at night, lined with trees wrapped in sparkling white fairy lights. Red-brick buildings, pedestrians and bicycles frame the warmly illuminated pedestrianised street.

St Werburgh’s, Dublin

Peter’s Pub, Johnson Place, Dublin, at dusk.

Rocket (one of my two house-sit beagle charges) - don't be fooled! He was incredibly cheeky.

Butter wouldn't melt! This is a guy who would swipe your breakfast toast and then swear he hadn't.

Gorgeous orchid on Ballintubber house-sit kitchen window sill

Waiting for me at the Ballintubber house-sit

Ballintubber Abbey (est. 1216)

The famine ship memorial beneath cloud-covered Croagh Patrick, County Mayo.

“National Famine Memorial” at Murrisk, County Mayo.

National Famine Memorial’s skeletal coffin ship at Murrisk, County Mayo.

Medieval abbey ruins and historic graveyard, County Mayo

Clew Bay at low tide, beside Murrisk Abbey, County Mayo.

The ruins of Murrisk Abbey and its historic graveyard, County Mayo

Roofless interior of Murrisk Abbey, with ancient stone walls, a Gothic arched window and gravestones set into the gravel floor.

Ornately carved Celtic cross commemorating the Salmon family in the historic graveyard at Murrisk Abbey, County Mayo.

A stained-glass window and exposed timber roof inside historic Ballintubber Abbey, County Mayo.

The stone-vaulted interior of Ballintubber Abbey, with its altar and stained-glass windows, County Mayo

Stone holy water font and plaque commemorating the founding of Ballintubber Abbey in 1216 by Cathal O’Conor, King of Connacht.

Sculpture of the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus in the gardens of Ballintubber Abbey, County Mayo

The bathroom floor tiles at the house-sit, which reminded me of wagyu beef...

This sign made me laugh while walking the beagles in Ballintubber, County Mayo

A narrow, wet country lane winding between green fields and hedgerows, disappearing into the morning mist in rural County Mayo

A quiet street in Tubbercurry, County Sligo, lined with traditional Irish shopfronts and houses, illuminated by the warm golden light of sunset.

Black-and-white photograph of Marilyn Monroe smiling on the set of Something's Got To Give, wearing a fitted white dress and high heels beside a film clapperboard.

Because no set of pictures is complete without Marilyn. Wardrobe testing for Something’s Got To Give, her final, unfinished movie.

Tubbercurry main drag at sunset.

Ballintubber road I walked the beagles on each day.

Google Maps screenshot showing the final leg of the 9 November road trip, with stops at Classiebawn Castle, Slieve League Cliffs and The Rusty Mackerel, and an estimated driving time of 2 hours 23 minutes

Final route for 9/11/2026

Destination: Slieve League Cliffs ~ the highest sea cliffs in Europe

A weathered “Danger Deep Drop” warning sign on a grassy coastal cliff, overlooking the blue Atlantic Ocean beneath a clear sky.

Mullaghmore

Benbulben Mountain rising above the green countryside near Grange, County Sligo.

Highland cattle enjoying the sunshine in a grassy field near the Sligo coast.

Benbulben rising beyond the coastal grasslands and waters of Streedagh, County Sligo.

Streedagh Beach, County Sligo, with its sweeping sands, Atlantic waters and the mountains of Benbulben in the distance.

The most laid-back Highland cattle in Ireland. Perfectly happy to sit in the sunshine and pose for photographs without a care in the world!

Sunlit rocky shoreline at Mullaghmore Head, with layered rock ledges, a boulder-strewn beach and grassy cliffs overlooking the calm blue Atlantic Ocean.

The winding coastal road around Mullaghmore Head, with Classiebawn Castle silhouetted against the afternoon sun and the Atlantic stretching into the distance.

Classiebawn Castle silhouetted against the afternoon sky, overlooking Mullaghmore Head, County Sligo.

A rather emphatic warning at Mullaghmore Head, County Sligo. Apparently, the Atlantic coastline isn't for the faint-hearted!

The beautiful blue Atlantic at Mullaghmore Head, County Sligo, with rocky shelves extending into the sea and distant mountains on the horizon.

Cattle grazing beneath the afternoon sun, with the distinctive flat-topped silhouette of Benbulben rising in the distance, County Sligo.

A solitary cow enjoying the peace and quiet of the Sligo countryside, with the magnificent Benbulben mountain providing the backdrop.

The last golden light of the day catches the Atlantic coastline near Crownarad and Tullid, County Donegal, beneath a dramatic November sky.

A peaceful stretch of Donegal countryside, where wild grasses and gorse-covered hills roll gently towards a sheltered bay beneath a soft November sky.

Just up the road from The Rusty Mackerel, a beautiful view across the sheltered waters of Donegal Bay, with green pastures, scattered cottages and rolling hills beyond.

Looking across the tranquil Teelin Estuary towards the Atlantic, with sheep grazing on the green hillsides near The Rusty Mackerel, County Donegal.

The extraordinary stillness of the Teelin Estuary, County Donegal. Fishing boats rest on glassy waters beneath cloud-draped mountains, with the quiet beauty of Ireland's west coast on full display.

A cosy stone fireplace with a crackling open fire inside The Rusty Mackerel pub in County Donegal, Ireland. Copper kettles line the mantel, with a large mounted salmon displayed above, antique furnishings, wooden chairs and a wicker log basket.

The magnificent Sliabh Liag cliffs in County Donegal, rising some 600 metres above the Atlantic and ranking among the highest sea cliffs in Europe.

A closer look at the towering rock faces of Sliabh Liag, County Donegal, with two dramatic sea stacks rising from the Atlantic below. The rugged cliffs reveal extraordinary layers of rock, weathered by centuries of wind and waves.

A moment at the magnificent Sliabh Liag cliffs in County Donegal, with the towering rock faces and Atlantic Ocean providing a spectacular backdrop. I might look formidably cool, but the icy wind was howling! 😂

A panoramic view of the magnificent Sliabh Liag cliffs in County Donegal, stretching along the Atlantic coastline. Standing at the viewpoint gives some sense of the extraordinary scale of these towering sea cliffs.

“I am wild, I am on the edge, I am Sliabh Liag.”

A beautiful piece of writing from the visitor centre at Sliabh Liag, County Donegal, where the landscape speaks in its own voice. And having stood among those extraordinary cliffs, I couldn't agree mo — “I am wild, I am on the edge, I am Sliabh Liag.” A beautiful piece of writing from the visitor centre at Sliabh Liag, County Donegal, where the landscape speaks in its own voice. And having stood among those extraordinary cliffs, I couldn't agree more.

Silver Strand Beach, Malin Beg, County Donegal.

A perfect crescent of golden sand, sheltered by rugged headlands, with the Atlantic stretching away beyond. One of those places where the beauty of Ireland leaves you momentarily speechless. — Silver Strand Beach, Malin Beg, County Donegal. A perfect crescent of golden sand, sheltered by rugged headlands, with the Atlantic stretching away beyond. One of those places where the beauty of Ireland leaves you momentarily speechless.

The quiet countryside above Silver Strand, Malin Beg, County Donegal. Rolling green fields, old stone boundaries and the Atlantic stretching towards the horizon. A landscape of extraordinary simplicity and beauty.

Cill Ghabhlaigh – Doonalt, County Donegal. A wild stretch of Atlantic coastline, where ancient cliffs rise above the sea and the landscape seems almost untouched by time.

Gleann Gheis (Glengesh), County Donegal.

I don't think I've ever seen a landscape quite like this. Even in November, with the colours fading into winter, it's extraordinary. And the road through it is quite something. — Gleann Gheis (Glengesh), County Donegal. I don't think I've ever seen a landscape quite like this. Even in November, with the colours fading into winter, it's extraordinary. And the road through it is quite something.

Gleann Gheis (Glengesh), County Donegal.

The Glen of Spells. Its name comes from the ancient Irish tradition of the 'geis', a binding prohibition that could bring dishonour or death if broken.

Even the landscape comes with a story in Ireland. — Gleann Gheis (Glengesh), County Donegal. The Glen of Spells. Its name comes from the ancient Irish tradition of the 'geis', a binding prohibition that could bring dishonour or death if broken. Even the landscape comes with a story in Ireland.

Mount Errigal, near Gort an Choirce, County Donegal.

Quite a sight to come across while driving through the Donegal countryside. Such a distinctive mountain, rising almost out of nowhere. I had to stop for a photograph. — Mount Errigal, near Gort an Choirce, County Donegal. Quite a sight to come across while driving through the Donegal countryside. Such a distinctive mountain, rising almost out of nowhere. I had to stop for a photograph.

My 60th birthday in County Donegal. Everywhere I looked, the landscape and the extraordinary light reminded me of Turner paintings. It was like driving through an exhibition all day.

Dún Lúiche (Dunlewey), County Donegal.

Another view that had me pulling over on my birthday. The mountains seem to go on forever, and the little houses beneath them give you some idea of their scale. Ireland really does have a way of making you feel — Dún Lúiche (Dunlewey), County Donegal. Another view that had me pulling over on my birthday. The mountains seem to go on forever, and the little houses beneath them give you some idea of their scale. Ireland really does have a way of making you feel very small.

Caisleán na dTuath (Cashel), County Donegal.

Another lovely scene from my birthday drive. The still water, little stone walls and trees along the shore. Even under a grey November sky, there's so much to look at. I'm finding it very difficult to dri — Caisleán na dTuath (Cashel), County Donegal. Another lovely scene from my birthday drive. The still water, little stone walls and trees along the shore. Even under a grey November sky, there's so much to look at. I'm finding it very difficult to drive anywhere in Ireland without stopping for photographs.

Doe Castle seen across the calm waters of Sheephaven Bay, County Donegal. Autumn bracken and bare shrubs fill the foreground, with the medieval castle standing on a low peninsula against green hills and a cloudy sky.

Doe Castle, County Donegal.

One of my more memorable roadside discoveries. I stopped to admire this beautiful old castle across the water, although, in the interests of full disclosure, my reasons for disappearing down a little path into the undergrowth were not entirely architectural.

A magnificent view, and an enormous relief.

Arraheera, North Fanad, County Donegal.

The last of the November sunlight breaking through the clouds. I've seen some extraordinary skies in Ireland, and this was another one worth stopping for.

Fanad Head Lighthouse standing on a rocky headland overlooking the Atlantic Ocean in County Donegal, Ireland. Rolling green fields, scattered cottages and rugged countryside lead towards the white lighthouse beneath a dramatic November sky.

Historical information panel at Fanad Head, County Donegal, describing how local communities supported themselves through farming, fishing, kelp burning and granite quarrying during the 19th century.

My first glimpse of Fanad Head Lighthouse, County Donegal.

I'd travelled halfway around the world to spend my 60th birthday here, and suddenly, there it was! Perched on the edge of the Atlantic, looking every bit as wonderful as I'd imagined. I couldn't quite believe I was finally here.

I loved this little sign. A 200-year-old building asking us to excuse its imperfections. At 60, I thought that was a rather splendid philosophy to adopt myself!

My first look inside my lighthouse cottage. I was beside myself with excitement! And it was even lovelier than I'd imagined.

And the sweetest little kitchen, complete with a farmhouse sink overlooking the rugged landscape outside. I was in love with the place already.

And then I looked out of the kitchen window. A sheer drop to the rocks and sea below! Not your average kitchen view.

And my bedroom! I’d travelled halfway around the world to spend my 60th birthday at this lighthouse, and here I was, finally. My own cosy little room, the Atlantic outside the window, and the wonderful feeling that I’d chosen exactly the right place to be.

The view from my bedroom window. The warm glow of the bedside lamp reflected in the glass, and beyond it, nothing but rocks, water and the fading evening light.

And this was the view just outside my living room door! A little rocky cove, the Atlantic stretching out beyond it, and those magnificent cliffs opposite.

And my very own ‘patio’! A strip of grass on the edge of the Atlantic, with a view that went on forever. Not a bad spot to contemplate turning 60!

And even the bathroom had character! A lovely old-fashioned window, terracotta floor tiles and, rather unexpectedly, a washing machine. Everything I could possibly need for my little lighthouse adventure.

A narrow, winding staircase connecting the two floors. Another little reminder that this was a lighthouse keeper’s cottage, not your average holiday accommodation. I loved it all the more for that.

A little more exploring outside, and this was waiting for me. The rugged coastline, the extraordinary colour of the water, and the Atlantic stretching away into the evening.

Fanad Head Lighthouse, where I spent my 60th birthday. I loved everything about this place, and being able to stay here for two nights made it even more special. What a way to turn 60!

Low-angle view of the white Fanad Head Lighthouse tower in County Donegal, Ireland, with its red-railed lantern gallery rising against a dramatic blue-grey evening sky.

View from the grounds of Fanad Head Lighthouse across Lough Swilly towards distant mountains beneath a blue-grey, cloud-filled sky. A low stone wall curves around the grassy headland, with a solitary bench overlooking the water.

View from Fanad Head Lighthouse across the Atlantic Ocean, with waves breaking against rugged rocks beneath a vast, cloud-filled blue-grey sky. Distant headlands stretch along the horizon.

Slices of rich Irish porter cake filled with raisins and cherries on a white plate, alongside the Inspired by Centra packaging and a butter knife on a wooden kitchen worktop.

Birthday cake!

No friends gathered around the table, no birthday cheesecake lovingly made by Mum. Just me, a shop-bought Irish porter cake and a lighthouse on the edge of the Atlantic. Not quite the traditional 60th birthday celebration, but I wouldn't have swapped it.